
BABSI FLASHES FREE RIDER
A film documenting the first flash ascent of El Capitan by BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher.
Add 100 EUR more to quality for free Shipping!
€0,00 EUR
THURSDAY, AUGUST 6, 2020
To this day, after years of searching for first ascents, he claims Dreamtime is still the best line he’s ever seen. But climbing it proved more difficult. Twice Carlo traveled to Ticino, Switzerland, and both trips ended without a send. After 8 years since his last trip, Carlo still had Dreamtime in the back of his mind. As he puts it, there was only one way to find out how it would feel after all these years .
Video: Mary Mecklenburg and Carlo Traversi Photos: Mary Mecklenburg
There are certain lines that just beg to be climbed. Some are obvious weaknesses on an otherwise clean, imposing wall. Others are more subtle, requiring an experienced mind to initially decipher, but once chalked and ticked, unfold into something intriguing. And some have it all, a captivating weakness that holds just the right amount of mystery, as if asking you, “Can you put the pieces together?”
My first bouldering inspiration came in the form of a photograph depicting Fred Nicole making the first ascent of Dreamtime in Cresciano, Switzerland. It also happened to be the first V15 in the world. The boulder was beautiful. A perfect, clean slate of granite segmented by a series of sloping rails. I was too young and naive to understand what “a line” even was at the time, and so it became my definition for one. Knowing that it was V15 and regarded as the most difficult boulder problem in the world was both inspiring and incredibly intimidating. I’ve always been driven to climb things based on their aesthetic and it seemed only fitting that the most beautiful piece of rock also happened to be the hardest.
In the years that have followed I’ve climbed thousands of boulder problems, some established, some not. I’ve spent countless hours, days, and weeks, exploring rock faces near and far. Dreamtime is still the best I’ve seen. Simply knowing that it exists brings hope that when I walk into the woods in search of something new, maybe I’ll find something as captivating. I still haven’t found it. But I won’t stop looking.
My personal journey with Dreamtime began in late 2010 on my first trip to Switzerland. The first thing I did when I arrived in Ticino was drive directly to Cresciano and hike out to that beautiful boulder perched on the hillside above the valley. The rock, the location, the atmosphere was all better than I could have imagined. My first session on it was promising, but the rest of the trip was plagued by intermittent wet weather that soaked the climb. My second trip in 2012 was characterized by similar circumstances: first it was too warm and then it was too wet. My attention was pulled elsewhere, as Ticino offers too much of what I’m always looking for. Before I knew it I was back home again, dreaming of the lines left undone.
As I grow older, I grapple with the understanding that I won’t be able to climb everything I want to in my lifetime. Particularly those climbs at the upper end of the difficulty scale. There’s too many. The days pass quicker and quicker, responsibilities increase and fitness wanes. There are not enough days left with good conditions, the right mind set, and the optimal fitness. At some point I have to narrow the focus and prioritize.
It’s early 2020 and almost 8 years have passed since my last trip to Ticino and Dreamtime has been sitting there in the back of my mind. What will it feel like? Am I fit enough? Will the conditions cooperate? Only one way to find out …
-Carlo Traversi
A film documenting the first flash ascent of El Capitan by BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher.
BD Athletes Aaron Mulkey and Yannick Glatthard take the new Hydra into the backcountry of Montana in search of steep ice and...
BD Athletes Aaron Mulkey and Yannick Glatthard take the new Hydra into the backcountry of Montana in search of steep ice and mixed climbing.
Close
Follow Dorian Densmore and Mya Akins for a month-long, exploratory mission in the Chugach Mountains.
Two BD legends walk into the Valley. What happens next? Watch and see.
With ski season kicking off, the QA Lab crew dives deep into the world of electromagnetic interference and how it can affect...
With ski season kicking off, the QA Lab crew dives deep into the world of electromagnetic interference and how it can affect backcountry safety.
Close
Light is right, but steel is real. So, when it comes to ice screws, what’s the deal? In this QC Lab, Will...
Light is right, but steel is real. So, when it comes to ice screws, what’s the deal? In this QC Lab, Will Gadd and Matt Berry thread their way to the source of truth when it comes to aluminum vs. steel ice screws.
Close
She was many things—a Stonemaster, an outdoor industry visionary, a physicist. A rock dropped into a pond that created ripples, affecting many...
She was many things—a Stonemaster, an outdoor industry visionary, a physicist. A rock dropped into a pond that created ripples, affecting many lives and generations of climbers. This is the story of our unsung hero, our co-founder.
Close
Go ahead, take the whip. You’ve got a trucker bolt just below. But wait … you sure about that? In this Gear...
Go ahead, take the whip. You’ve got a trucker bolt just below. But wait … you sure about that? In this Gear Myths, Kolin “KP” Powick shares a recent close call, which resulted in an exploration of safety protocol when it comes to sport climbing.
Close
The QC Lab team is joined by IFMGA Mountain Guide Mark Smiley to discuss the subtle art of building, testing, and using...
The QC Lab team is joined by IFMGA Mountain Guide Mark Smiley to discuss the subtle art of building, testing, and using snow anchors.
Close
Follow these expert pointers on how to properly build out your very first trad rack.
A look into the technology and construction of an essential tool for hiking and trail running.
Find out from the experts at Black Diamond, the tips to find the best rock climbing harness for you.
In this Gear Myths, we’re opening the lid (pun intended) on the topic of helmets—more specifically, how climbers decide when to wear...
In this Gear Myths, we’re opening the lid (pun intended) on the topic of helmets—more specifically, how climbers decide when to wear helmets and a few predictions on the future of the brain bucket.
Close
Physical Therapist Esther Smith joined BD Bootcamp for a few days to work with BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl, Daila Ojeda and Colette...
Physical Therapist Esther Smith joined BD Bootcamp for a few days to work with BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl, Daila Ojeda and Colette McInerney to address any injuries they had before training. This article will highlight Babsi’s treatment protocol as her shoulder injury was limiting her ability to climb and train. Esther shares what optimal shoulder posture looks like when climbing, hanging and training.
Close
Follow BD athlete Sam Elias and filmmaker Mike Call in this exploration of climbing legacy and land stewardship while rebolting classic routes...
Follow BD athlete Sam Elias and filmmaker Mike Call in this exploration of climbing legacy and land stewardship while rebolting classic routes with the next generation.
Close
Our QC Lab posts aim to answer some of climbing's most common gear-related questions. This round we talk about carabiners.
In this article, we’re sharing our tips on what to wear while bouldering, sport climbing, or multi-pitch & alpine rock climbing.
Featuring young crushers and BD Ambassadors Tanner Bauer and Chris Deuto, this film captures the magic of two friends on a summer...
Featuring young crushers and BD Ambassadors Tanner Bauer and Chris Deuto, this film captures the magic of two friends on a summer mission to climb the iconic golden arete of Doubloons (5.14b) in the Colorado alpine.
Close
A documentary film currently debuting in film festivals around the world.
Watch Connor claim the coveted second ascent of this California testpiece.
We see it all the time. People at the cliff with one or two daisy chains girth hitched to their belay loop...
We see it all the time. People at the cliff with one or two daisy chains girth hitched to their belay loop or tie-in points, and using them as a personal anchor system when at an anchor. Wrong.
Close
We see it all the time. People at the cliff with one or two daisy chains girth hitched to their belay loop...
We see it all the time. People at the cliff with one or two daisy chains girth hitched to their belay loop or tie-in points, and using them as a personal anchor system when at an anchor. Wrong.
Close
The following QC Lab was originally posted years back after Todd Skinner died in Yosemite when his belay loop broke.
The bigger the better, right? Well, not so fast. In this QC Lab, Quality Engineer Hunter Gvozdich goes deep into the world...
The bigger the better, right? Well, not so fast. In this QC Lab, Quality Engineer Hunter Gvozdich goes deep into the world of testing to explore the strengths and weaknesses of our new monster cams—the #7 and #8 Camalots.
Close
It is with much sadness that we say goodbye to Kyle Dempster, one of our climbing ambassadors and a dear friend to...
It is with much sadness that we say goodbye to Kyle Dempster, one of our climbing ambassadors and a dear friend to many of us in the BD family.
Close
Gear Myths: Essential Climbing Knots, Figure 8 vs Double Bowline
Our QC Lab posts aim to answer some of climbing's most common gear-related questions. This time we talk about connecting slings.
Remember that weathered tree tat you were eyeing? Or how ‘bout that 20-year-old rope you found sitting in a basement completely unused?...
Remember that weathered tree tat you were eyeing? Or how ‘bout that 20-year-old rope you found sitting in a basement completely unused? Rest assured. KP and the QC Lab crew head to the testing room to answer your age-old question … how strong is it?
Close
Here's the question we get asked probably more than any other: "Can I use a Sharpie to mark the middle of my...
Here's the question we get asked probably more than any other: "Can I use a Sharpie to mark the middle of my rope? "Our answer: "I don't know."
Close
Ever wondered exactly how strong a cam placed in “umbrella” mode actually is? Or what about the strength of your knotted slings?...
Ever wondered exactly how strong a cam placed in “umbrella” mode actually is? Or what about the strength of your knotted slings? Don’t despair!
Close
In this QC Lab, BD’s Climbing Category Director Kolin Powick (aka KP) digs into the world of Personal Anchor Systems. How should...
In this QC Lab, BD’s Climbing Category Director Kolin Powick (aka KP) digs into the world of Personal Anchor Systems. How should they be used? And what happens if they’re MIS-USED??? Well, buckle up and take a ride with KP and the QC crew as they journey into the complex world of the PAS.
Close
In this Gear Myths, we talk about your quickdraw orientation preference. More specifically, opposing the gates or having them face the same...
In this Gear Myths, we talk about your quickdraw orientation preference. More specifically, opposing the gates or having them face the same direction? And more importantly, does it matter?
Close
Follow BD Athlete Antte Lauhamaa on an exploratory winter mission in the remote Scandinavian Mountains of Sweden.
This film contributes to the rising tide of voices elevating the importance of safeguarding the Grand Canyon region against uranium extraction in...
This film contributes to the rising tide of voices elevating the importance of safeguarding the Grand Canyon region against uranium extraction in its watershed.
Close
Featuring blind athlete and BD Product Developer Seneida Biendarra on her emotional journey to gold at the 2023 Paraclimbing World Cup in...
Featuring blind athlete and BD Product Developer Seneida Biendarra on her emotional journey to gold at the 2023 Paraclimbing World Cup in Salt Lake City.
Close
Watch these BD shredders send it in South America.
Watch the uncut of BD athlete Babsi Zangerl sending the iconic Yosemite trad testpiece.
In the first of the Hard Sends series, BD athlete Seb Bouin takes us to Pic Saint Loup near his home in...
In the first of the Hard Sends series, BD athlete Seb Bouin takes us to Pic Saint Loup near his home in France, where he attempts the first ascent of ACL (5.15b)—a route he bolted in memory of his grandfather.
Close
Black Diamond Ambassador Will Gadd offers advice for building a Plice, a.k.a plywood ice.
It's hard to find a climber who hasn't experienced elbow pain at some point. You’ve likely lowered from many a route rubbing...
It's hard to find a climber who hasn't experienced elbow pain at some point. You’ve likely lowered from many a route rubbing your elbow to ease a nagging ache in your arm. Such was the case with BD Ambassador Brittany Griffith … that is, until she met Esther Smith. In the second installment of their Hang Right series, Physical Therapists Esther Smith and Katey Blumenthal explain the cause of elbow pain and tell us what we can do about it.
Close