Gear Myths: Essential Climbing Knots, Figure 8 vs Double Bowline

Gear Myths: Essential Climbing Knots, Figure 8 vs Double Bowline In this installment of Gear Myths, we take a whip into an age-old debate: the double bowline or the figure 8. Which knot reigns supreme for tying in and why?

This could be the most divisive disquisition in climbing history. Replete with age-old stereotypes and lore, this topic has been fervently debated for decades around campfires, at the crag, on blogs, and of course SuperTopo forums.

The old adage is that the figure 8 knot is easier to check visually, making it safer, while the double bowline knot is easier to untie after a fall is taken. This brings us to back to those two stereotypes.

First up, we have the crusty tradster. You know, painter pants, striped tee, weird Tyrolean hat, old-school ethics. This camp definitely ties in with the tried-and-true figure 8. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Next, we have the sport jockey. Doing whatever it takes to send the gnar, this performance-driven crew ties their flossy 8.9’s with a double bowline. Who can possibly untie a cinched up 8 when you’re proper bricked after a punt off the ol’ proj?

But do these stereotypes hold merit? And is the double bowline truly the preferred knot for sport climbers while the figure 8 remains the old standby for everyone else?

We decided to ask a few Black Diamond Athletes and take a big ol’ whipper into this debate.

Top of the list was next-level trad climber Connor Herson. In truth, Connor is as versatile as a Toyota Previa, but he’s perhaps best known for placing widgets while free climbing The Nose (VI 5.14a) on El Cap at age 15 and sending Empath (5.14d) on gear. Born into a climbing family, Connor embodies old-school style with a modern slant.

So, can you guess which knot he prefers?

“Figure 8 all the way,” says this reticent ropegun. “Way easier to double check.”

OK, checks out.

Let’s switch it up and see what comp queen Natalia Grossman ties in with. As a world cup competitor, Natalia smashed the glass ceiling for Americans by becoming the IFSC bouldering world champion in 2021. Then, she did it again in 2022. She’s also competitive on the lead circuit, and in her down time has climbed 5.14b outside. So, what does Natalia, the epitome of new-school, tie in with?

“Figure 8, because I’ve never been taught anything else.”

And she adds: “Also, the double bowline isn’t allowed in comps.”

Ah, now there’s a little nugget of contradiction for the classic stereotypes of knot tiers. No double bowlines for the sport climbing comp crushers? Interesting...