MENTAL TRAINING: SKILLS FOR A STRONGER MIND

Black Diamond Athlete Hazel Findlay just roared back from shoulder surgery and recently redpointed her hardest route. However, Findlay will be the first to tell you that her biggest strength is not her body, but her mind. As a coach,

Hazel Findlay on Mind Control (5.14c).Image: Jonny Baker

I just sent Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana, Spain, which is my hardest redpoint to date. But I might be one of the weakest people to have ever climbed that route (any takers for “beating’” me at that competition?). I think my biggest strength in climbing is having a good mindset. From observation at the crag and those that I coach, I’ve noticed that many blame physical weakness when really their head is the limiting factor. Here are some of the mental training skills I use to help me perform when I really want to.

5) PRESSURE IS YOUR FRIEND

When I did Mind Control I had two days to do it before the rain came in and soaked the top of the route again. I didn’t do it the first day so the second day was my final chance to send. Some people perform well under pressure, others don’t. Those that do perform well under pressure use it in their favor.

Here are some points to help you:

The first thing is to reframe your perception of pressure: If you’ve always had a negative perception of pressure, take a step back and consider the opposite. Maybe those nervous feelings are going to sharpen your senses when you get on the rock. Maybe this added bit of pressure is going to give you just that little extra edge. Remind yourself of all the times you’ve performed well under pressure (and not just climbing examples).

8) FOCUS IS EVERYTHING

• First, understand that to climb at your best, your attention needs to be with what is happening right now. This is especially hard to do when it comes to redpointing because so much of your mind is thinking about clipping the chains. Having your mind be in some other place (like at the chains) is a massive distraction and will be your downfall. Not only this, but all the most enjoyable moments in climbing are when we are wholly there in that place at that time with our eyes and mind on the next hold. I don’t know about you but I love climbing because my mind is no longer distracted like it is the rest of the time.

Practical techniques to help us focus:

• Focus your attention on the here and now.
Before you step off the ground focus on something to anchor your attention. Your breath is an obvious object of your attention and if any of you have done yoga or meditation, this will come naturally to you. You may want to soak up the view, or listen to the ambient noise. When we really focus on what’s happening right now, we realize how much there is to fill our minds and we no longer have room in our head to worry about whether we’ll send or not.

11) DON’T COMPARE YOURSELVES TO OTHERS

Whether you send or not, nothing can be gained from comparing yourself to others. So you thought you’d done really well and then you heard a 10-year-old girl did it in less tries, so now you feel less proud of yourself? How on earth can her achievement belittle yours? Unfortunately, we live in a world where we are constantly comparing ourselves to others. “What she did is nothing compared to so and so.” These sorts of comparisons are fear-based and come from a place in us that isn’t very attractive. If you were happy, committed and accepting of a challenging process, then what more is there to be gained? It doesn’t matter if it was a 6a or a 9a, the process is exactly the same. And this process of projecting is very valuable because there is much to be learned. So at the end of the day don’t ask yourself whether what you are doing is good compared to other people. Ask yourself what you learned. With this mindset, nothing can stop you.

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