When I rack for a multi-pitch trad climb, I rack like this:

  • Cams (with a biner on each cam), set of Stoppers on my harness
  • Quickdraws and a few spare biners on my harness
  • Over-the-shoulder runners with one biner on each—over my shoulder (well duh...)

If I need to place a cam, I grab one, place it, clip it and go.

I saw him fiddling at all of these cam placements and was wondering what in the world was going on up there—he's taking forever farting around with gear—maybe it's because he's so strong he doesn't get it—but for me, I need to place the piece and keep moving before I flame out. So as I'm seconding his pitches and having to deal with this unfamiliar conglomeration of slings on slings on cams, etc—I'm wondering:

  • Why is he doing this? and
  • How much does this affect the strength?
  • And, I am getting pumped out of my mind.

I mean nylon on nylon or Spectra on Spectra, etc—sounds like bad juju to me—and I'm not talking about girth hitching anything here—just looping it through.

I get to the belay and ask my partner what's up with the method—and then it all clicks—ahhhh "old school alpinist," light is right, save a biner, etc, etc—and old habits are hard to break. Regardless, I got back from the weekend, explained the situation to the crew in the QA lab and we proceeded to do a few quick tests.

The Tests

We slung some 8 mm Spectra through a typical cam sling and did a few pulls in the tensile tester and a few drops in the drop tower. We compared the results to a cam sling only.

MORE STORIES

How To Choose Climbing Shoes

HOW TO CHOOSE CLIMBING SHOES

Choosing the right pair of shoes is a crucial step for success, from gym bouldering...

READ ARTICLE
Making of the Dirtbag Pant

MAKING OF THE DIRTBAG PANT

How our best-selling pant almost didn’t happen.

READ ARTICLE
The Ultimate Sun Hoody Guide

THE ULTIMATE SUN HOODY GUIDE

Everything you need to know from wearing to caring.

READ ARTICLE
The Yosemite Triple Crown

THE YOSEMITE TRIPLE CROWN

Timestamps from Chris Deuto and Erik Anderson climbing Yosemite’s Triple Crown Link-up.

READ ARTICLE
Cantos Y Flores

CANTOS Y FLORES

Follow Karina Carsolio and Hillary Gerardi to Bolivia, where they search for connection and remembrance...

READ ARTICLE
An Epic Weekend in Grand Teton National Park

AN EPIC WEEKEND IN GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

Jackson Hole Mountain Guides offer their favorite climbing and trail running routes for the ultimate...

READ ARTICLE
The Wind River Range Rack

THE WIND RIVER RANGE RACK

Essential equipment for climbing in the Winds.

READ ARTICLE
Engineered From Experience

ENGINEERED FROM EXPERIENCE

Our gear and apparel is made for mountain movement, featuring innovative designs and durable constructions....

READ ARTICLE
The Alpine Climbing Fit-Check

THE ALPINE CLIMBING FIT-CHECK

What to wear for alpine rock climbing.

READ ARTICLE
Gear for Alpine Sending

GEAR FOR ALPINE SENDING

What equipment to bring alpine rock climbing. 

READ ARTICLE
Hard Sends with Seb Bouin—El Gran Cabron

HARD SENDS WITH SEB BOUIN—EL GRAN CABRON

Watch BD Athlete Seb Bouin establish the hardest sport route in China.

READ ARTICLE
Black Diamond Guide To Headlamps

BLACK DIAMOND GUIDE TO HEADLAMPS

Your ultimate guide to lighting the way.

READ ARTICLE
What to Bring on a Trail Run

WHAT TO BRING ON A TRAIL RUN

The essentials for mountain running. 

READ ARTICLE
BD Guide To Climbing Pants

BD GUIDE TO CLIMBING PANTS

Focused on comfort and freedom of movement, built for the climbing life. 

READ ARTICLE
How to Choose a Hiking Pack

HOW TO CHOOSE A HIKING PACK

A guide to find the pack for your pursuit.

READ ARTICLE