TEST METHOD

We didn't perform every single permutation and combination of possibilities, just enough to get a general idea of what would happen in certain situations. We started off using a fall factor of 0.6, 80 kg of mass and a slightly dynamic belay. If the rope didn't cut clean through on the first drop, we would continue dropping the mass on the same location of the rope until it broke. Obviously, this isn't super realistic as I'm sure if you were to take a gnarly fall and sheath your rope, hopefully you have the sense to NOT go up and fall again on the EXACT same spot on your rope.

We then upped the ante a bit by increasing the fall factor to 1, increased the mass to 100 kg and used a static belay.

MORE STORIES

Gear for Alpine Sending

GEAR FOR ALPINE SENDING

What equipment to bring alpine rock climbing. 

READ ARTICLE
Hard Sends with Seb Bouin—El Gran Cabron

HARD SENDS WITH SEB BOUIN—EL GRAN CABRON

Watch BD Athlete Seb Bouin establish the hardest sport route in China.

READ ARTICLE
Black Diamond Guide To Headlamps

BLACK DIAMOND GUIDE TO HEADLAMPS

Your ultimate guide to lighting the way.

READ ARTICLE
What to Bring on a Trail Run

WHAT TO BRING ON A TRAIL RUN

The essentials for mountain running. 

READ ARTICLE
BD Guide To Climbing Pants

BD GUIDE TO CLIMBING PANTS

Focused on comfort and freedom of movement, built for the climbing life. 

READ ARTICLE
How to Choose a Hiking Pack

HOW TO CHOOSE A HIKING PACK

A guide to find the pack for your pursuit.

READ ARTICLE
Bouldering in Milho Verde

BOULDERING IN MILHO VERDE

BD Ambassador Eric Jerome shares about his experience from the little Brazilian bouldering town of...

READ ARTICLE
Packs and Vests for Moving Through the Mountains

PACKS AND VESTS FOR MOVING THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS

BD mountain athletes Joe Grant and Kelly Halpin guide us through their picks for trail...

READ ARTICLE
The New School Of Hard Rocks

THE NEW SCHOOL OF HARD ROCKS

BD Ambassador Ethan Salvo sounds off on why Squamish is yielding testpieces for the next...

READ ARTICLE
Making of the Zone Harness

MAKING OF THE ZONE HARNESS

A revolutionary design in performance and comfort.

READ ARTICLE
BFCL Episode 4: Drifter's Escape

BFCL EPISODE 4: DRIFTER'S ESCAPE

Watch Connor Herson establish the world’s hardest trad climb.

READ ARTICLE
How to Choose a Climbing Rope

HOW TO CHOOSE A CLIMBING ROPE

Tips for picking a new cord. 

READ ARTICLE
Making Of The Distance FKT Pole

MAKING OF THE DISTANCE FKT POLE

The next evolution of efficiency and endurance for mountain running.

READ ARTICLE
The Growing Tribe Of Trad

THE GROWING TRIBE OF TRAD

Watch Jacopo Larcher climb Bon Voyage (9a/5.14d), the hardest trad route in France. And read...

READ ARTICLE
Black Diamond Harness Guide

BLACK DIAMOND HARNESS GUIDE

Core to climbing, core to Black Diamond, and engineered to send.

READ ARTICLE