
Black Diamond Global Athlete
SAM ELIAS
My existence is a cocktail of the academic, the artistic, and the athletic. There are symmetries and also tensions, and these create texture and richness for life. I’ll always be intrigued by the seemingly oppositional elements that are present through fundamentally existing as a human being, even if they are paradoxical and impossible to perfectly rationalize. I’ll always try to find a connection point, even if there only appears a gap from the perspectives that I’ve previously looked, ever trying to remain open and trusting that below the surface of gaps and of opposition, there can be sameness and interconnection.
Climbing has in large part directed my life since 2005. I felt immediately at home in the practice and lifestyle and community, and I structured my life so that I can be dedicated to it. I was introduced to climbing through sport climbing, and it is my main pursuit. However, I have taken to many other styles; traditional climbing, bouldering, deep water soloing, ice and winter mixed climbing/dry tooling, and mountaineering and ski mountaineering. Before climbing, my life was devoted to alpine skiing and ski racing. I have skied since I was 2 years old. I began racing at the age of 12, and when I was 16, I moved from Michigan to Salt Lake City, UT to attend Rowmark Ski Racing Academy. After that, I was recruited to ski race for the College of Idaho. I still ski frequently and love exploring the mountains this way.
The first time I ever climbed was in 1995 when I was 12 years old at an outdoor summer camp in Colorado. I remember touching the stone for the first time, being on the wall, and moving upwards. I didn’t understand what I was experiencing, but now, looking back through my memories, I can describe it – I wasn’t scared, I wanted each climb to go on forever. I never wanted to come down. It just felt so natural, and so liberating – From that first day until 2000, I climbed only a handful of times. In the Spring of 2000, I began climbing slightly more, including a couple formative work stints at Planet Rock Climbing Gym in the original Pontiac, Michigan location during the summers when I was home from school. However, I was still very dedicated to ski racing, and I was on a scholarship to race for college. I graduated in 2004, travelled a little bit, and ultimately ended up back at home in Michigan with my parents, trying to figure out what to do next. I got a cool job with a friend doing artistic concrete work, and I was going to the climbing gym a lot. That lead to weekend trips to The Red. And, that ultimately lead to the turning point – getting a job at Miguel’s Pizza and Climb Shop in the Spring of 2005 – from that point onward, climbing became an aspect and consideration of daily life. It permeated nearly everything, and it became my lifestyle and my community.
Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself — and nature.
As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber — climb clean.
— Sam Elias quoting the 1972 Chouinard Equipment catalog